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How to save a couple of quid: You do not have to purchase a chain checker at £15.99. There's a cheaper way to do it of course. It means that you will have to break the bank and buy a ruler or a tape.

Handy hint: If your going out for the day, Remember to take either a spare pin or powerlink (Unless you are worried about the extra weight LOL). Broken chains do happen. There is nothing worse than being 10 miles from anywhere in the rain with no transmission.






























Chain check/renewal

Checking for chain wear.

Time taken: 5 minutes

Difficulty Rating:

Tools Required

Ruler or tape measure. Chain checker if you own one.
A new chain should measure 12inches (304.8mm) from centre of pin to centre of pin based on twenty four links. Any more stretch than 1/16" (approx 2mm) then it's time for a new chain. Simple but effective.

Time taken: 30min

Difficulty Rating:

Tools Required

Chain pin tool & Pliers

There is no substitute for a link pin removal tool. Don't even attempt to try and knock pins out using any other method. Just empty the loose change out your pocket and buy. A tool should only set you back around £15 . Trust me it is an investment.

1) Remove a pin from your chain using the aforementioned tool, now just slide the chain off the bike. Do not throw away just yet.
2)Use the old chain as a guide for the length of your new chain. Just lay them down side by side and mark the length with a piece of chalk. Remember that it will not be the exact same length as your old chain will have stretched.
2a)If, however, you for some reason are not sure of how many links you should have then follow this procedure.
Put the new chain on the largest sprockets front and rear and bring the ends together. (Make sure that it takes the proper path through the front and rear derailleur and pulleys). This should just about pull your rear derailleur cage until it is parallel with the chainstay (or the ground). Give it some assistance by pulling the chain taught if needed, then lift the chain at the top of the chainring (the front sprocket). You should then have between one half and one full link of extra chain at this point. Mark this length, as this is the length that you install. Another rule of thumb for chain length is this: when you are on the large chainring in front and the small cog in the rear, the rear derailleur should be straight up and down, or 90 degrees to the ground. An imaginary straight line through both pulley wheels will be perpendicular to the ground.It will be easier then to get the smaller sprockets to join the chain at this length as it will not pull as much or be as tight on the smaller sprockets.
3)Remove pin to adjust chain to desired length. Make sure that you remove the correct pin so that you have a male at one end of the chain and a female at the other.
4)Wrap chain around drive train and through rear mech. Making sure that the chain is routed correctly around the jockey wheels.
5)Now to join the chain. There are two different methods of joining your chain. The first method is a straight forward push in pin. You will have to use the tool to push this pin back through the links until it is flush with the rest of the pins. This will leave a section of the pin proud. All you then need to do is snap the excess off using a pair of pliers. The second and increasingly popular method is a "powerlink" style. This is also pretty easy to use. All you need to do is join the chain using the backing part, press on the faceplate and then twist until the link clicks into place. This can be fiddly at first, but once you have fitted your first powerlink it will be easy ever more.
REMEMBER
Your chain will last a lot longer if you follow the advice given in the chain cleaning/lube section.


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